 Posted 2/25/2005 6:40:11 PM
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Hello there. We are about to construct a new home with an indoor pool.
The pool room is 50ft x 30ft x roughly 14ft average height.
The pool is 17ft x 34ft, with an automatic cover in place the majority of the day.
The pool room will be on a separate HVAC system.
Would one of your dehumdifiers do the trick?
Could I please have the cost of both the Hi-E-Dry 100 & 195?
Thanks in advance,
Paul
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Posted 1/2/2007 5:40:32 PM
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At ASHRAE recommended conditions of 80 F water and 82 F air the load of this pool would be about 12 pounds of water / hour. If the pool is kept covered when not in use and single HI- E DRY 195 and constant ventilation of about 160 cfm should be able to control the humidity in this room at about 55 % RH. If the conditions are going to be different the load would need to be recalculated. I can be reached directly at 1-800-533-7533, ext. 7802.
PS the ventilation keeps the moisture from going into the rest of the structure and keeps the concentration of chemicals to a minimum.
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Posted 1/2/2007 5:40:32 PM
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| Therma-Stor has a new dehumidifier dedicated to swimming pool dehumidification. It is the HI-E DRY VEHERE. The Vehere has a stainless steel body. It can stand alone or it is duct ready. The controls are 24 volt for easy remote installation.
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Posted 1/2/2007 5:40:32 PM
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I am building an indoor pool and spa. The pool is 18' x 40' and the spa is 6' x 9'. The pool is covered most of the time, like Paul's. The water vapor load is estimated at 25 lbs/hr while in use. We are located in NW Washington state where we rarely have high outdoor temperatures.
On the rare days when the outside temperature approaches 80F we have a 2500 CFM fan to pull the air out if natural ventilation is not enough.
Can the demand on the dehumidifier be reduced by using heat recovery ventilation? What is the best balance between heating up outside air versus efficient compressor driven dehumidification?
When the pool is covered, how many air changes per hour is best? How much can the make up air be reduced?
Thank you very much,
Sandy
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Posted 1/2/2007 5:40:32 PM
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The humidity problems with pools happen when it is the coolest outside. The pool room has high dew points and the surfaces on outside walls are at their coldest, so they sweat.
As far as ventilation the ventilation should be 1.5 times the natural leakage of the room, and that ventilation should be negtive (exhaust) pressure. I assume average construction, which would be about 1/3 of an ach per hour of natural ventilation. The air is going to get out of the building because warm goes to cool and wet goes to dry. In the winter the warm wet air of the pool room will work its way through the wall and the roof causing damage. If the ventilation is kept negative air is pulled through the wall and roof into the pool room. CAUTION needs to be taken with negative pressure ventilation to be sure there ate no open combustion devices which could back draft. As far as an air to air for ventilation the room will still ventilate naturally regardless of what the air to air is doing unless the outside air is the same temperature and humidity as the inside air.
The pool room should be isolated from the rest of the struture with a dedicated heating / cooling system to handle the sensible load.
You can call me at 1-800-533-7533, ext. 7802 if you have any other questions.
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